Snails, Frogs, Donkeys

Romans celebrate decorously the Feast of the Decollation (beheading) of St. John (the Baptist), but last week they frolicsomely observed the Feast of his Nativity with torchlight processions and tremendous eating of snails. An old Italian custom, this honorary snail-eating is not (legend to the contrary) a rite of imitation derived from St. Matthew's assertion that "His [John the Baptist's] meat was locusts and wild honey."

Not only snail-eating but frog-racing and especially donkey-racing are part of Rome's traditional observance of St. John's day & night. As usual the frog racing last week was somewhat impromptu (afterward the contestants are eaten by the spectators who adjourn for this purpose to the restaurants), but the donkey race as always was an important affair.

The Course: from the Church of St. John Lateran ("The Mother Church and the Head of all Churches of the City and of the World") to the Church of St. Croce in Jerusalem.

The Steeds: donkeys most of them derisively named for enemies of the Fascist State--i. e. a small dun beast was placarded "Edouard Herriot" (French Socialist), a lop-eared one was dubbed "Francesco Nitti" (onetime Italian Prime Minister--1918--20--forced by Il Duce into exile).

The Result: boisterous confusion, unwonted mingling of uproarious spectators with donkeys on the course prevented a clean victory but the favorite by acclaim was the long-legged, one-eared donkey "Primo Camera."

Gay as children, with as little thought that solemn Nordics might think their sport in the shadow of sacred things irreverent, the Latin mob rollicked all night, turned up in the grey dawn exhausted and pious at early Mass.

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