Monitor Haute Truck Stop

By GINIA BELLAFANTE

Sometime a few years ago, movie stars and urbane, goat-cheese-and-endive types discovered bowling alleys, pool halls, tattoos, Harley Davidsons, diners and restaurants that looked like diners but served goat cheese and endive. All of a sudden the pastimes, artifacts and style of low-rent America, in all their glorious white-trashiness, had become chic. The fashion continues to flourish:

THE HARLEY-DAVIDSON CAFE, NEW YORK CITY: Last week's opening of this restaurant attracted Alec Baldwin, designers Nicole Miller and Norma Kamali, and the intrinsically low-rent Donald Trump.

LORENA BOBBITT: In this month's Vanity Fair, the Virginia woman who severed her husband's penis is celebrated in a sexy, arty portrait by star photographer Mary Ellen Mark. Mrs. Bobbitt has said of her native Venezuela, "I have a patriotism . . . We do have McDonald's. We do have Pizza Hut."

SOUTHERN COMFORT ADS: Ads for the drink of choice of 4-by-4 owners are running in slick magazines like Elle and Spin and feature dreadlocked guys playing the saxophone. Next, Quaker State motor oil ads in GQ.

DREW BARRYMORE GUESS? ADS: The pedigreed actress appears everywhere in ads that depict a world of cheap lust, chipped nail polish and guys who should be doing time for armed robbery.

THE BEANS OF EGYPT, MAINE: This week production begins on the movie version of Carolyn Chute's novel about incest and squalor in trailer-park Maine. It stars avatar-of-hip Kelly Lynch.

TRUE ROMANCE and KALIFORNIA: These glam noir films are all blood, greasy hair and bad grammar. Kalifornia features Brad Pitt, America's coolest male star, as a grubby killer. Patricia Arquette, the gum-cracking call girl in True Romance, is also an Armani model.